| IHCustoms Full Cage Kit The Ultimate In Use-ability, Style, and Design! |
| As Shown Above: No CB Bars Package |
| As Shown Above: Full Length CB Bar Package |
| AVAILABLE PACKAGE OPTIONS: No CB Bars: $650 Front CB Bars: $675 Full-Length CB Bars: $700 +Shipping CB Bars are the dual bars running directly overhead at the center of the cage kit. They provide additional "squareness" and rigidity to the kit. They are also popular for mounting CB's, CB microphones, and Velcro-Style Handles for grabbing while off-roading or highway driving. We recommend at least the front CB Bars, they're very handy! |
| ALLOW 1-2 WEEKS FOR FABRICATION OF YOUR FULL CAGE KIT. |
Questions about our full cage kits are expected, and
encouraged. We are more than happy to answer all
your questions about our products. Most people email
us several times with questions before they purchase a
full cage kit! We are here to help, please ask! We can
also email you the instructions for this kit if you like,
just ask!
EMAIL US HERE IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS!
We'll get back to you right away.
encouraged. We are more than happy to answer all
your questions about our products. Most people email
us several times with questions before they purchase a
full cage kit! We are here to help, please ask! We can
also email you the instructions for this kit if you like,
just ask!
EMAIL US HERE IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS!
We'll get back to you right away.
Uses our special front cage kit plate design. Allows for elimination of all tubing below the dash. More
room, no tubing in your way. Use all your dash components just like you did before.
You can see more info on our famous front plates HERE.
Rear arms extend past the wheel wells for protection of the entire interior of the Scout.
Front plates and rear arms mount through existing stock body mounts.
We use sturdy, .120 wall HREW or CREW 2-inch steel tubing. We have a mandrel bender with
hydraulic attachment that makes unbelievably smooth and accurate bends. This bar is similar to
the original factory roll bar design, with some improvements. These will fit extremely well
under a full hard top, that's how we designed it.
This is a kit, and you will install it yourself. Kit includes front plates, front arms, visor and dash
cross bars, main hoop, rear arms, cb bars (optional), and all the mounting plates. You'll need to
get your own grade 8 bolts, and have basic to intermediate tools. Professional welding
recommended, but can be done by an experienced welder. Remember, the cage will only be as
strong as the welds. All joints that need to be welded are cut with a hole saw or sharp blade, so
everything will fit together very nicely. Nathan goes the extra mile to make sure everything
squares up and fits together well. Install can be easily done in a weekend by an experienced
mechanic/fabricator.
NOTES: Front sun visors may need to be relocated towards the center of the Scout. All your
floor should be as rust free as possible: Replace or repair it if it's anything but solid and firm. If
your Scout has a vent in the kick panel, you'll need to drill your own hole through the front
plates to re-install it. If you've redone your body mounts, you may need to change the pre-
drilled hole size and/or location slightly. None of these are major issues (easy fixes), except
perhaps the rust! We all know how bad IH rust can be.
room, no tubing in your way. Use all your dash components just like you did before.
You can see more info on our famous front plates HERE.
Rear arms extend past the wheel wells for protection of the entire interior of the Scout.
Front plates and rear arms mount through existing stock body mounts.
We use sturdy, .120 wall HREW or CREW 2-inch steel tubing. We have a mandrel bender with
hydraulic attachment that makes unbelievably smooth and accurate bends. This bar is similar to
the original factory roll bar design, with some improvements. These will fit extremely well
under a full hard top, that's how we designed it.
This is a kit, and you will install it yourself. Kit includes front plates, front arms, visor and dash
cross bars, main hoop, rear arms, cb bars (optional), and all the mounting plates. You'll need to
get your own grade 8 bolts, and have basic to intermediate tools. Professional welding
recommended, but can be done by an experienced welder. Remember, the cage will only be as
strong as the welds. All joints that need to be welded are cut with a hole saw or sharp blade, so
everything will fit together very nicely. Nathan goes the extra mile to make sure everything
squares up and fits together well. Install can be easily done in a weekend by an experienced
mechanic/fabricator.
NOTES: Front sun visors may need to be relocated towards the center of the Scout. All your
floor should be as rust free as possible: Replace or repair it if it's anything but solid and firm. If
your Scout has a vent in the kick panel, you'll need to drill your own hole through the front
plates to re-install it. If you've redone your body mounts, you may need to change the pre-
drilled hole size and/or location slightly. None of these are major issues (easy fixes), except
perhaps the rust! We all know how bad IH rust can be.
CLBM 2008
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Overhead View of NO CB BAR Full Cage Kit
| Overhead View of FRONT CB BARS Full Cage Kit |
| Overhead View of FULL LENGTH (Front & Rear) CB BARS Full Cage Kit |
See how out of the way these are?
Plate Design=No Tube in front of your pedals or dash
| Front Plates= Not in the Way! |